The terracotta warriors are great, but Xi'an is worth visiting for the food alone. The city was uniquely positioned at the end of the Silk Road which unsurprisingly led to gastronomic influence from outside China, and in particular from the Middle East. A large Muslim population altered the cuisine introducing a preference for spiced lamb and beef (rather than the predominant pork and chicken found elsewhere in China). The best place to discover these amazing delights are in the Muslim quarter near the drum tower, where a bustling (albeit very touristy) street market with plentiful obligatory neon is in full swing every evening. There is enough choice to eat something different every day for a month, so we tried as many different things as we could in two nights (and one breakfast).
The most distinctive and delicious street food in the city is the rou jia mo (annoyingly described as a Chinese hamburger by the touts), which is diced lamb or beef in a steamed, baked pitta-style bread, with variations of chilli sauce. The other common sight is whole carcasses being butchered in the street and skewered on twigs, then barbecued with herbs and chilli, and brushed with garlic. There is probably nothing better for a carnivore than barbecued lamb on a stick. Another interesting dish to try was the liangpi, cold noodles with variations of peanut, sesame, soy and chilli sauces. The yoghurt is also excellent, creamy, slightly sweet and drunk through a straw from small glass jars. Definitely not to be missed are the persimmon doughnuts, sticky, sweet and fresh from the frying plate. Nothing like a normal doughnut really, but so delicious and the extremely low price will keep you going back again and again. A final interesting find was a small white steamed dessert on a stick, lightly flavoured with rose water, dipped in jam and nuts and eaten hot (hard to describe, and no idea what the name is). There are numerous sweet sugary offerings, dried fruits, and breads on display which we didn't really try as they are produced and packaged rather than eaten as street food, but these are the probably the most theatrical. The young men who stretch out and twist hot sugar on hooks across the street are the most impressive, and the boys with large wooden mallets (clearly the intern's job) are endlessly hammering sugar and nuts into shape. English is rarely spoken fluently enough to ask what you're eating, but that can be part of the fun. Unless it's obvious what it is (boiled sheep trotters being the clearest we saw), just give it a go. The persimmon doughnuts were our best test find, but as soon as we left Xi'an I was already concerned about what we might have missed. 21/8/2022 09:53:47
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AuthorsRob & Charlie's travelling adventures on their long journey back to London after living in Hong Kong. Four continents, twelve countries, lots of experiences. Archives
July 2017
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Robert Ware & Charlotte Nunn |