The next stop was Koyasan. We weren't sure even just a few days before whether we would make it up to this little mountain of joy as it was quite a journey to get there from Kyoto (four hours on three trains, a funicular up the mountain then a bus) but it was absolutely 100% worth it.
The legend goes that hundreds of years ago (in the 8th century) a very spiritual chap called Kobo Daishi was on the hunt for a place to set up a Buddhist retreat. After years of studying and searching in China, he awoke out of a particularly long and deep period of meditation and found himself at the bottom of a great mountain in Japan where a local goddess with a black and a white dog took him to the peak of Mount Koya. It is nestled below eight peaks which imitated the petals of a lotus and his mind was made up. He received permission from the Emperor of Japan, opened a school to teach Shinden Buddhism, built lots of temples and the rest is history as they say. So following the great and awe-inspiring read ups, it felt only right that we blend in with the resident monks and spend a night in one of the fifty-two temples on the mountain open to visitors. It's very high up (900m above sea level, double The Peak in Hong Kong) so it's COLD. And the temples you stay in are COLD. The only place that is warm is under Japan's most fabulous invention - the kotatsu. Basically, a table with a heater on the underside and a duvet wrapped around the edge. I would have slept under it if I could. It was discussed. Briefly. The temples seem to vary in range so we opted for somewhere in the middle with Jimyo-in. We did our usual and booked the day before via JapaniCan as the temples aren't available on Agoda and few have English websites. We were to be served a traditional Buddhist meal (all vegan without even onions or garlic) at 5.45pm. It was delicious, a little more tofu than we'd usually go for but if it's good enough for the monks... Anyway, we read somewhere that the mountain's highlight, Okunuin Cemetery is pretty cool and a little spooky at night so post-dinner, off we went. They were right, the huge pines loomed above us in the shadows, the occasional shrine illuminated by the pockets of candlelight lining the path. It was magical. Couldn't wait to see it in the daylight. 6.30am wake up for prayers, in a -8C temple. To be honest I was expecting a sea of monks chanting away, sadly it was just the one but it was intimate and special nonetheless. If you like trees, you'll love Okunoin. Hundred year old pine trees surround the tiny path of pilgrimage that meanders through the forest, some taller than your eye can see and there are more shrines than I could count! I've never been a spiritual person but this place could turn me! The most impressive were the stacked, five stone shaped columns that looked like they had somehow grown out of the earth and were often cloaked in that lovely green moss. The five stones represent the cornerstones of Buddhism; water, wind, fire, earth and space. There were also hundreds of statues with what looked like children's bibs tied round them, which we later learnt were dedications to children lost. The whole walk to the revered Kobo Daishi's mausoleum where he is said to still be alive but in deep meditation (they even bring him fresh food twice a day!), and then back to the town took us around 1hr 30, but we were constantly stopping to take photos despite the aura and greatness of this magnificent place making it near impossible to capture. Osaka is a quintessential modern Japanese city. Bright lights, retro yet futuristic buildings, hipsters, achingly cool bars, intimidating amounts of shopping, and really great food. Despite all this Osaka feels unpretentious and doesn't provide the pressure of visiting historical sites. In fact as far as we could tell there was nothing to really see in Osaka, just to enjoy being there and eating you way around the 'kitchen of Japan'. Head to Dotonburi for the main drag of food spots and nightlife, and Namba or Umeda for shopping on another level. The culinary highlight is almost certainly the takoyaki (octopus ball pancakes to the uninitiated). We also splurged on some seriously tasty kurobuta pork tonkatsu, another must eat in Japan (although if in a hurry the convenience stores all do surprisingly good tonkatsu sandwiches). And by walking down an alley we stumbled across another amazing quirk of Japanese culture, a tiny, nameless five-seat bar with an enthusiastic ageing bartender in a cramped, smoky space that hadn't been updated since it was established in the 80s.
En route to Nara, we stopped at Tofuku-ji and then walked on to the Fushimi Inari Shrine. Tofuku had a rather impressive rock garden, much better than Ryoan-ji the day before and far less crowded. The Inari Shrine was a bit of a nightmare, the crowds of selfie sticks and people stopping every second made it a bit frustrating. There is quite an impressive food market leading up to it however where we enjoyed a slab of bbq'd bacon. We decided against walking the whole trail and just dashed around the first section, the tori gates lined up as they really hem you in so once you are in there (and walking at snail pace behind buggies, selfie sticks et al), you are in it for the long haul.
It's surprising how little time we have spent at the 'can't be missed' tourist attractions. They are often too full to enjoy and there are so many quieter delights if you're willing to put the effort in. We opted for a day trip from Kyoto rather than staying there and we are glad we did as although it's fun to see the tame deer wandering around, there isn't much else of note apart from the Todai-ji which is reputed to be the world's largest wooden structure - to be fair it is quite impressive. The deer are so tame and used to humans that they have learnt to bow before receiving the crackers the park sell everywhere. It made for much amusement as we tried to capture it on video. Our next form of self entertainment was the quest for the perfect deer selfie. We didn't do too badly... Up early as we had a busy day ahead of us, first stop was the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, somewhere Rob was particularly excited to visit since one of his favourite films is Hero. So, it's pretty cool, but once again, the crowds and selfie sticks really interfered with the experience of standing amongst these magnificent swaying beauties and pictures don't even do it justice anyway! We agreed that we were glad we didn't have to pay, paying to walk through a forest with that many people would not have been fun. LP came through on its recommendation for Okochi Sanso, probably one of Kyoto's best gardens. Found at the end of the bamboo grove trail, the thousand yen entry fee puts a lot of people off, making it a bit of a gem. A peaceful retreat away from the tourist crowds, it is an exquisite and lavish estate of a famous Japanese silent film actor. My new favourite thing is moss. These gardens played the moss game very well, the way it creeps and envelops every surface is mesmerising. We did however come across someone working on maintaining it, it didn't look easy - they had tweezers in their hands! The weather being perfect certainly helped things but I think even in poor light this garden would shine. Every corner is so perfectly thought out, the trunk of each tree is twisted at just the right angle to make it a thing of beauty, the pruned little umbrella trees casting photo-worthy shadows, the bamboos gently swaying, covering everything in a gorgeous dappled light. Even the paths were lined with strips of fresh green bamboo as opposed to your standard little fence. Sheer perfection. Ryoan-ji temple is 'famous' for its rock garden which was a real disappointment. We were later to learn there are far better (and cheaper) examples elsewhere so give this one a miss and read on to find out which! Kinkaku-ji or 'Golden Pavilion' was certainly our temple highlight despite the hoards of maddening and pushy tourists this place attracts. It is a spectacular pavilion covered in brilliant gold leaf. We arrived at around 4pm which was just perfect as the sun was low and was hitting all the right spots, creating awesome reflections in the pond that surrounds it. Sadly a crazy monk burnt it down in 1950 so it isn't actually as old as it looks. On our wandering back home, we stumbled across Waraununo, the coolest cafe in Kyoto. It is a converted onsen and it's original features had been beautifully preserved, separate sides for men and women and amazing azure tiles. It had the makings of a Monocle double page spread for sure. Not only that, but the coffee and cake were to die for.
AND, as if the day hadn't been good enough, I picked up a dream vintage kimono (yes I will wear it Rob) at a bargain price. My only regret now is that I didn't buy a load more! We had dinner at Kyoto Yachimun, the cutest little teppanyaki spot. First time for teppanyaki but I already know it'll be hard to beat. Sitting at the counter in these places is key, you get to see all the action and it's so interesting to see how they prep everything on a single hot plate. It is a little out of the way but trust us, your tastebuds will thank you! It doesn't take long in Kyoto to realise why it is one of the most interesting and beguiling cities in Japan (and therefore possibly the world). Unlike many cities in Japan where the modern urban environment dominates, Kyoto retains relatively low-rise narrow streets, studded with more temples and shrines than you could visit in a year, and endless cool cafes, bars and restaurants. One major downside is of course its popularity, the famous Higashiyama district was completely unbearable, the Pontocho Alley completely missable, and it was seemingly impossible to escape the ubiquitous coach tours. But if you dig a little deeper there are some places the tour groups stay away from and we often had them almost to ourselves. That said, don't miss the main sites, just go early in the morning and avoid the post-lunch rush as the Chinese tourists tend to get up late and have a big lunch. There are actually seventeen Unesco World Heritage sites here, not that we could ever manage to see them all. It was genuinely difficult to decide which temples to visit as the descriptions all sound so similar. Our advice would be to pick three a day, more than enough! On a side note, Japan does not do breakfast. We have wasted many hours wandering around looking for a cute little spot for a bite to eat in the morning. These mornings often lead to a coffee deprived and grumpy Rob and a hangry Charlotte. Not the best of combinations. We have started to buy milk and granola in 7-11 and abandoned the breakfast quest. Our first temple stop was Shoren-in as it was a guidebook top pick, mainly because many miss it out in favour of its grander neighbours. It was empty and the lack of tourists made it most enjoyable! Next up was Chion-in, unmissable as it has a seriously impressive and massive temple gate, allegedly the largest in Japan, but sadly the temple itself was closed for refurbishment. Although we did manage to see the seventy tonne bell, also allegedly the largest in Japan.
Yasaka-jinja shrine was also totally missable, crowds of tourists looking at rows of lanterns and not much else. I guess the park it is in during summer may be quite attractive but sadly it was all under construction again so the 'quaint' rock pools, stepping stones through streams and little bridges were replaced with diggers and mud. We found a very fun spot for a drink in the evening - Forum Kyoto, we pretty much stumbled across it and Rob recognised the exterior from a blog he'd seen ages ago (clever boy) - it's eight floors featuring a coffee shop, cafe, bar, art spaces and a restaurant, each achingly cool in that minimalist chic Japanese way. Capsule hotels are unique to Japan. Their intended market is traditionally weary salarymen who just need a cheap and easy place to sleep, however the appeal stretches further. I have always been intrigued and so could not pass up the opportunity. A lot of them are getting quite dated now but Kyoto has the sleek and modern 9 Hours (so called because you need one hour to clean yourself, one hour to rest, and seven hours to sleep). The concept is extremely simple. You arrive, put your belongings in a locker, and get provided with everything you will need for the night (toothbrush, towel, pyjamas etc.). The pods are in dark, silent, windowless rooms (with men and women on separate floors) and are about the size of a single bed, slightly wider than you might expect with a shutter at the end. Panasonic have provided a state of the art lighting alarm system to get you to sleep, and up again, gradually (although in practice it was more like someone shining a bright torch in your face at 7.30am).
The reality is that it isn't very comfortable and is not that different to sleeping in a dormitory. Snoring reverberates through the pods and people (mainly tourists) don't observe the no phones rule. The ability to get seven hours sleep is highly presumptuous. Claustrophobics also stay away, the reflective plastic coffin feels like just that. Capsules hotels like this are certainly a vision of the future, with large amounts of people crammed into a small amount of space. And it most certainly looks and feels futuristic, with a couple of hundred people wearing matching black suits walking around a stark white building, willingly climbing into pods ready for their long sleep across the galaxy.. Kanazawa was described as a quieter Kyoto, and not having been to Kyoto that sounded appealing. A major reason for going was the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, a great gallery and a great piece of architecture (by one of the best Japanese architects). However it is also a very old town which was the home to many samurais and a thriving geisha district, both of which have been maintained extremely well and as a major bonus have very low numbers of tourists. A very popular local museum is the D.T. Suzuki Museum, built in tribute to a locally-born, well-regarded, 20th century Japanese philosopher. It's very small, with no english anywhere, but I guess it is a peaceful place to sit and contemplate life. The geisha district (Higashiyama) is characterised by small, narrow paved streets lined with terraced, aged timber tea houses. Only a couple have been maintained in original format as museums, however the area still retains a tranquil vibe and is particularly charming when the lights start to come on at dusk. The samurai district (Nagamachi) is a network of houses surrounded by tall rammed earth walls. Again, you can visit a few original houses, but the area also has two canals passing through it so is also very pleasant to get lost in. A huge highlight of Kanazawa is the Kenruko-en garden, considered to be one of the top three gardens in Japan. An assortment of lakes, fountains, orchards and teahouses wind around the top of a hill with views of the city beyond. Although the snow obscures a lot of planting at this time of year, you get to see the reason why they tie all the branches to a central pole. Being near the sea Kanazawa has no shortage of seafood, and the Omi-cho market is open until early afternoon with a number of recommended sushi restaurants. However it is the area around Korinbo which is most buzzing, but be aware that everything shuts really early (if it's even open), and by 8pm the only places with life were seedy bars so eat early.
We (Charlotte) were slightly sceptical as to whether the snow monkeys above Yudanaka Onsen, a couple of hours from Nagano, were worth the detour. The answer is yes. A rather dated private train (with 180 degree views from the front carriage) winds through the suburbs, then countryside and vineyards outside Nagano (yes, Japan makes a lot of questionable wine), and eventually up into the Japanese Alps. An hour later you arrive at the village of Yudanaka. From the station you need to get a bus half an hour up to Shibu Onsen, and from there a half hour walk through the pine forests leads you to the snow monkeys of Jigokudani (literal translation is 'hell's valley' due to the hot and steamy ground).
Many disclaimers make it clear that the monkeys are not guaranteed to be there (especially in summer, for obvious reasons) however on the day we went there were hundreds. The macaques stay warm by choosing to bathe in the natural hot spring baths and river. Although still entirely wild, they are very accustomed to humans and go about their daily lives completely oblivious to your presence. To get that close to monkeys in such an amazing environment is an unmissable experience. After our first major disagreement of the trip (over, let's just call it a miscommunication over directions) we set off in our little hire car for Matsushima Bay. Reported to be one of Japan's Three Great Sights, it's a bay studded with around 260 pine covered islands. Residents credit the islands, which served as natural breakwaters, with sparing Matsushima from the devastation caused by the 2011 tsunami seen elsewhere along the coast.
On arriving, we decided against the tourist boat, instead settling for a wander round Oshima Island, a super cute spot full of tucked away stone shrines, wind beaten pines and awesome views of neighbouring isles. Driving further north round the bay, we wound our way down unmarked roads amidst mountains of piled earth and lines of construction vehicles to Oku Matsushima on Miyato Island. The devastation in this area was clearly visible. Had it not been for the occasional sign of a previous life - the deserted train station platforms - it would have been hard to even imagine it was once a thriving port town. There is a beautiful 20 minute hike on a trail through the woods in the middle of the island that takes you up to not only stunning views of the bay, but also wider scenes of the devastation. Certainly needed a hire car as public transport has all but disintegrated. The scenic route up to Minami Sanriku through the pine forests was a nice if not longer than expected drive. Of the town's eighty evacuation sites, thirty-one were inundated and 95% of the town was destroyed, there is pretty much no sign of a town ever having existed here. They are now re-building the town and raising it by 10 metres to protect the new town from any futures tsunamis. We were wandering around a viewing point when a chap came over to ask if we were looking for something, his English was perfect and after explaining we were just here to look and pay our respects, he thanked us for visiting before bowing and quickly turning away as the emotion seemed too much. We realised he was there to collect his young kids from school and figured the memories must still be very raw. There are many touching memorials in this area and many 'before' photos posted showing the areas before the disaster struck. The journey back to Sendai was a long one, construction workers everywhere and we were constantly stuck behind tractors and trucks, but when you consider the efforts they are putting into rebuilding their homes, you don't mind so much. Sendai was our first stop in Honshu via the new Shinkansen under the sea. It's a modern buzzing city of cafes, shops, bars and restaurants. After a quick visit to Sendai Mediatheque (very interesting building by Toyo Ito, very disappointing community centre inside), with only one night in the city we had to find the gastronomic speciality, barbecued ox tongue. We found the perfect place for it, a very old local restaurant (no idea what the name was) with only one thing on the menu and the most miserable chefs in the world cooking it. The ox tongue comes fresh off the barbecue with a bowl of plain rice, some cold unidentified greens and a bowl of ox tail soup. Great proponents of nose (tongue) to tail eating hundreds of years before it was trendy. The restaurant was next to a small shrine behind a big mall on one of the busy bar streets in the centre.. Also worthy of note was the extremely cool and very tasty cheese tart shop Bake, located in Sendai station. Annoyingly it is within the JR rail platform area so slightly hard to find, but at least with a rail pass you don't need to buy a new ticket to get one.
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AuthorsRob & Charlie's travelling adventures on their long journey back to London after living in Hong Kong. Four continents, twelve countries, lots of experiences. Archives
July 2017
All photos copyright ©
Robert Ware & Charlotte Nunn |