Kanazawa was described as a quieter Kyoto, and not having been to Kyoto that sounded appealing. A major reason for going was the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, a great gallery and a great piece of architecture (by one of the best Japanese architects). However it is also a very old town which was the home to many samurais and a thriving geisha district, both of which have been maintained extremely well and as a major bonus have very low numbers of tourists. A very popular local museum is the D.T. Suzuki Museum, built in tribute to a locally-born, well-regarded, 20th century Japanese philosopher. It's very small, with no english anywhere, but I guess it is a peaceful place to sit and contemplate life. The geisha district (Higashiyama) is characterised by small, narrow paved streets lined with terraced, aged timber tea houses. Only a couple have been maintained in original format as museums, however the area still retains a tranquil vibe and is particularly charming when the lights start to come on at dusk. The samurai district (Nagamachi) is a network of houses surrounded by tall rammed earth walls. Again, you can visit a few original houses, but the area also has two canals passing through it so is also very pleasant to get lost in. A huge highlight of Kanazawa is the Kenruko-en garden, considered to be one of the top three gardens in Japan. An assortment of lakes, fountains, orchards and teahouses wind around the top of a hill with views of the city beyond. Although the snow obscures a lot of planting at this time of year, you get to see the reason why they tie all the branches to a central pole. Being near the sea Kanazawa has no shortage of seafood, and the Omi-cho market is open until early afternoon with a number of recommended sushi restaurants. However it is the area around Korinbo which is most buzzing, but be aware that everything shuts really early (if it's even open), and by 8pm the only places with life were seedy bars so eat early.
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AuthorsRob & Charlie's travelling adventures on their long journey back to London after living in Hong Kong. Four continents, twelve countries, lots of experiences. Archives
July 2017
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Robert Ware & Charlotte Nunn |