Neighbouring Teshima Island is around twenty-five minutes by boat from Naoshima. We decided that two nights in Naoshima was enough and that a day would be plenty for Teshima so we took our bags and checked them into the luggage store whilst we went exploring. Sadly yesterday’s good weather did not hold and we awoke to pouring rain. But, this did not stop us, we had two must sees on the list, the Les Archives Du Coeur and the Teshima Art Museum. So, five years ago at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Palma, Majorca we participated in a Christian Boltanski exhibition and recorded our heart beats. At the time we just thought it was fun and hadn’t really given it a thought since. We were told that the recordings would be archived in a small wooden shed on a tiny Japanese Island. And yep, you guessed it, that island is Teshima! The archive is located in the middle of nowhere on a remote corner of the island down a disguised pathway that leads to the beach.
On arriving, with great excitement, we immediately went to the computers to find our names logged in the archive, we learnt we were numbers 556 and 557 out of now over 50,000 heartbeats recorded across the globe. We then headed into the ‘Heart Room’ which is pitch black with only a single lightbulb that lights up in time to the heartbeat playing. The walls are lined with mirrors and the beat is so loud it moves you to the core. I then asked the attendant, (if you don't ask you don't get), whether she could play our heartbeats in the heart room. To our surprise, two minutes later, we were listening to the heartbeats we recorded five years ago on the other side if the world. It was an incredible experience and is still giving me goosebumps writing about it now. A little poem for you: Teshima It's a place you can't easily reach. It's a quiet beautiful island that is far from Tokyo And the other large cities of the world. It's a trip to listen to ones heartbeat. The long journey and the time to think are the important things. It's almost like a pilgrimage. — Christian Boltanski The Teshima Art Museum is dedicated to the work of just one artist - my new favourite, Rei Naito, so I knew it was going to be special, but it was genuinely on another level. The concrete shell of the building itself is a collaboration between the artist and the architect Ryue Nishizawa and was created to resemble a water droplet at the moment of landing. It is located in the corner of a rice terrace that was restored in collaboration with local residents. There are no pillars, just a wide open space with two oval openings in the shell which allow the elements of the outside world in. In the interior space, water continuously springs from little holes in the ground and move across the floor, like droplets of mercury, around the specially contoured surface. Single strands of string hang from the ceiling and occasionally catch the light. It was subtlety personified and up there with one of the most spectacular art experiences we have had. I could have stayed there all day. But then Rob dragged me back into the rain and reality and our art island experiences were over. A quick pit stop in Osaka again gave us a chance to finally sample the famous Japanese pancakes we’d heard so much about. Rob managed to find a super old school cafe full of furniture that would cost you a mint to buy back home. 1/8/2022 21:09:59
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AuthorsRob & Charlie's travelling adventures on their long journey back to London after living in Hong Kong. Four continents, twelve countries, lots of experiences. Archives
July 2017
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Robert Ware & Charlotte Nunn |