After what seems like weeks of luxurious accommodation, we bumped back to earth when we arrived in our windowless hostel in Cartagena. Luckily, Cartagena is probably one of the most attractive cities we've been to in South America with plenty of charm, colour, culture and the Caribbean. We stayed in the heart of the old town (definitely the best area for tourists) and spent the days just wandering around the colourful streets, drinking good coffee (an ironic rarity in Colombia), eating gelato, and trying to stay out of the unavoidable heat and humidity. Due to direct flights from New York and other US destinations, the canny Colombians have unsurprisingly doubled their prices making this by far the most expensive place we've been to for months.
However the only caveat to it being the most attractive city in Colombia is that this title only applies to the old town, outside of that it's a bit of a dump. Getsemani is the other up and coming barrio which is a must visit, especially in the evenings for some really great lively bars and restaurants, however be ready for the plethora of drug dealers, drunks, and prostitutes on almost every corner. We also didn't venture into the generic high rise condo area of Bocagrande as everything you could really need is within the old city walls, but apparently it has some good restaurants and beachfront. We did venture out to the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, the 17th century fortress on the outskirts of the old town. However sadly it is fairly missable, expensive to enter, and has a woeful lack of information. Supposedly the views from the top of the fort are meant to be great, but the surrounding area is rough and slightly industrial, so not exactly a highlight.
However it's not what you do in Cartagena that makes it great, it's just being in the city itself, which is a rare thing.
We are on a bit of a roll accommodation wise, MariaTe introduced us to her sister Carmen, an architect who owns a magnificent house in Palomino, a small town around two hours drive from Santa Marta. We were invited to stay for a couple of days, lucky us!! We had seen photos but they didn't really do it any justice. We had a bit of trouble finding the place in our broken Spanish but after rattling around in a moto-taxi down winding dirt tracks, we finally found it - another spot of paradise! An infinity pool over looking the Sierra Nevada mountains and a beautiful open plan thatched house on top of the hill above the beach.
Sulde, the house keeper, came to meet us and showed us around. Her heavy Costenos accent made it near impossible to understand her Spanish so there was a lot of gesturing. And the house was wifi free so we didn't have Google Translate to rely on this time! But we managed fine.
The view, the pool, the beach and our books kept us company over the next few days. Oh, and the museum sized bugs which at first gave us a few surprises but later became our friends. The mosquitoes however will never be our friends and sadly we were totally blighted by them. They were everywhere and I was constantly covering myself in DEET but the bastards even got me through my clothes so I was fighting a losing battle. Better to just stay in the pool then!
The sea has very strong currents so is not recommended to swim in but the beach provided a welcome breeze in the sweltering heat and a lovely walk. We pretty much had the whole beach to ourselves!
Sulde made us some mean huevos arepas for breakfast and treated us to a wonderfully fresh fish dinner one evening. So fresh, we think they arrived to the house in buckets as we heard them being knocked out moments later!
The highlight activity in the area is tubing down one of the two rivers Palomino sits between. Albert, Sulde’s eldest son, was our guide and made sure we didn't float off into the mangroves. It was such a shame we couldn't properly communicate with him as he was such a friendly chap and was clearly intrigued by us. No photos as you get soaked so the cameras were left at home, but it's a super relaxing activity. You just sit in the rubber ring and float away letting the river’s current take you as you glide through the rainforest. It's refreshing too as the water is cool, and we established early on that there were no baddies in the river so you literally lean back and watch the world go by.
And then, we lost all power for a full 48 HOURS!! There was a terrible storm, with the kind of thunder that makes the ground rumble and sets off car alarms. We didn't mind having no electricity at first, we had some candles and luckily a torch which Albert had given us earlier that day, but the worst was that we had no fans! The heat whist trying to sleep was indescribable! The only relief was a cold shower every hour and wet towels to lie under whist trying to keep very still! The museum bugs also seemed to take pleasure in the cover of darkness. Thank god I had my mosquito net that I have been uselessly hauling around with me for months. There was a lot of nakedness as we did pretty much everything to try to keep cool. Even the pool was like a bath! It wasn't much fun at first, especially when our laptop and both phones ran out of battery which meant we were totally cut off but looking back on it now, it's a good story for the grandkids.
We decided to fly to Santa Marta rather than face a 23 hour bus ride, and managed to get pretty decent LATAM flights avoiding the budget airlines. Phew. Once again, we realised we had totally lucked out when we arrived at my friend Juan’s condo in the Playa Dormida complex on the coast of Santa Marta. A brand new complex, it has everything we could have dreamed of, not one but THREE pools, a spa, gym and direct access to the beach. Not to mention the apartment with its stunning views and its contemporary designer finish, AND our very own oven. We were SO excited to be staying here, to rest and relax for four whole nights! If you are reading this Juan, we owe you a slap up meal once we arrive in LA!
Our first few days here looked like this: nap, cook, sip, swim, repeat. It was basically too hot to do much else. We did venture in to Santa Marta one evening but didn't think much of the place and quickly retreated back to our little den of comfort and solitude.
Tyrona National Park had been on our hit list from the start so we were eager to make the most of it and got up early. We were prepared for it to be baking hot with humidity off the charts so even more of a reason to get going. Being a bit of a sweater, as well as a walking jam jar, I was anticipating a difficult days hike through the jungle. The bus takes around an hour and there is a very official entrance on arrival where you have to watch a safety video (don't wander off the paths, don't feed the wildlife etc), you even get a wrist band. Then you can pay a little extra to get to the start of the trails vis a small mini bus, or you can just walk it. But you'd be mad to walk it unless you like 110% humidity and sweat dripping into your eyes. Many people camp at one of the several campsites but quite frankly, I couldn't think of anything worse at this time of year. So only being there for the day trip, we were on a mission to tick off three of the area's highlights, Arrecifes, La Piscina and Cabo San Juan. We doused ourselves in bug spray, made sure the sweat towel was within easy reach, and in to the jungle we ventured!
Ok, so I am glad I built it up in my head because in reality it wasn't that bad at all! I mean, the litres of sweat that poured out of me were very real but the paths are mostly flat and there are even wooden boardwalks in places making the walk rather enjoyable. The vegetation you walk through is awesome and changes at every corner so you never get too bored. It is around an hour walking to Arrecifes, 30 minutes more on to La Piscina and 20 minutes further again on to Cabo San Juan. I have never been so eager to tear off my clothes on seeing those ultramarine waters!
The wildlife is abundant, we saw Capuchin monkeys, Marmosets (SO CUTE), giant leaf cutter ants, a fun giant jungle hermit crab, and an amazing chrysalis hanging by a thread on to a tree. And thousands of lizards rustling by the path.
So we didn't rush too much but we did only just make it back to the entrance in time (4pm) to get back to the main bus before the park closed. It was just as well as there was a huge storm brewing. I felt pretty bad for all those sweaty happy campers who were clearly in for a rough night! Never has air conditioning felt so good!
After so many days in the countryside, it was nice to arrive in a big city again. Colombia’s second largest as a matter of fact and amazingly the only one with a metro system, which is lucky because the traffic is awful and it is BIG! We were staying in El Poblado, the nice part of Medellin, although we would have preferred to stay a little closer to Lleras Park. But beggars can’t be choosers. Our airbnb was clean but characterless, a slight shock to the senses after all the recent luxury.
Once dubbed the most dangerous city on Earth, we were naturally on our guard. But that was over a quarter of a century ago and really couldn't be further from the truth nowadays. With only three nights and two days to explore, we thought it best to join a free walking tour of the city. And we are so glad we did; it enabled us to learn which areas were to be avoided (of which there are several including the sizeable shanty towns), but also to reach some of the dodgier areas that we might have missed had we not had a local guide with us. However there is a heavy police presence pretty much everywhere you go in the centre indicating that vigilance is key to keeping up appearances. Not sure whether police on every corner is that reassuring but hey, rather they are there than not! Our guide was brilliant and provided us with a succinct and brief overview of the city’s troubled history. Pablo Escobar was referred to on our tour as ‘the famous man’, mainly to avoid upsetting the locals should they overhear. It is clear that the trauma the world's most famous drug dealer left behind is still very present..
After exploring the centre, we headed to the grittier Plaza Botero, full of not only sculptures donated by Botero (Medellin was his birthplace) but numerous ladies of the night. Let's just say they were very openly selling their wares.… Here our tour was momentarily halted as our guide assisted two tourists whose bag had just been stolen, with their passports, phones, money, everything. Nightmare. Our guide said they were highly unlikely to get anything returned.
On entering Plaza de San Antonio we were told to stay together as a group and not wander off alone to take photos, it was that dodgy. There are two bronze Botero bird sculptures, one perfectly intact, the other one twisted and broken. A bomb was detonated by the FARC in 1995 killing 23 people attending a concert in the square. The mayor had directed to have the damaged sculpture removed but Botero insisted it be left as a homage to the dead, determined that the city acknowledge and face its difficult past rather than cover it up and try to forget it. It was a particularly poignant story as we were still reeling from news of the recent London Bridge terror attack. But Medellin is the definition of resilience and the stories of recovery are inspiring and an odd comfort considering the turmoil back home.
We felt like splurging a little for dinner and took ourselves to Oci.mde, highly recommended!
We had wondered whether or not to do the Pablo Escobar paint balling tour given how expensive it is and because it's a long day from 7am-8pm, but in the end we decided to (when will we ever get the chance to go paint balling in a drug lord's house again?) so we swallowed the cost and signed up. I would give the day 7/10. It rained, a lot, which didn't help. An hour and a half bus drive out of town was followed by a twenty minute Jeep drive to the house, which sits on the edge of a beautiful lake. We were a big group of around 45, most were in their 20s and seemed very hungover. We are getting more boring in our old age.
We got extremely unlucky with our paint balling group - it was us and around twenty Israelis. Yes, they were all travelling after having just completed their national service, where they practice shooting guns for a year. They didn't speak any English so we had zero comms with our team which basically meant I just hid and squealed and Rob got shot in the arse at very close range. Then they got bored of playing, naturally, so shot all their pellets at trees and buggered off half way through.
A little wet and with bruises forming, we then went on a tour of Pablo’s house, well what's left of it anyway as it was bombed years ago. The pool remains however and you can still get a feel of how epic it would have been. We also met Mr Willy who was one of Pablo’s bodyguards from the age of 12! I wanted to ask him how many people he’d killed but Rob felt it would be inappropriate. He also said that only 10% of the Netflix series Narcos is real, the rest is total BS. I believe Mr Willy. He didn't look like someone you'd disagree with.
We then headed to a town called Guatape, apparently Colombia’s most colourful. Sadly it was very wet but the little streets still managed to shine. It was the most terrorised town in Colombia by the Escobar gangs and yet they managed to pick themselves up and make the most of what they have (mainly wealthy tourists gawping).
The final stop on the tour was the famous ‘rock’ in Penol. Now owned by a local legend who claimed it as his own after scaling it in seven days. He then built a little hut on top and decided the views were so good that he should share them. Hence the 750 zigzagging stairs to the top resulting in serious leg burn. Happy to report I was not the last one up however. But in true #robandcharliertw fashion, we were greeted with an almost total white out at the top. Typical!
The cable car (which incidentally inspired the La Paz system) is well worth a trip. Indigenous working class suburb, Comuna 1, served as a recruiting ground for the Escobar gangs and was, prior to the opening of the cable car, totally disconnected from the main town. But colourful murals now brighten the streets and there is a really authentic community spirit as you walk around. It was a bit of a fail for us as our main reason for visiting was to see the award winning Parque Biblioteca Espana, an arts / community centre funded by the Spanish government. Sadly it was under reconstruction but we could just about get the gist of it anyway.
So, I have always been quite a lucky person, like when I won Live Aid tickets in the public ballot, or when I bagged myself that new job with a 40% salary increase. Things always seem to fall into place at just the right time but we really did win the lottery of all introductions when our friend Paola said we should go and stay with her aunt and uncle, Maria Teresa and Jose, outside the small town of Pueblo Tapao in the Quindio region. The ‘coffee triangle’ was certainly a place on the list given Rob’s coffee obsession, but we had not planned on spending much time there, more of a drive through destination really. Well, as soon as we met MariaTe and her husband Jose at the Armenia bus station after a lengthly ten hour journey (they actually came to collect us!), we knew we had lucked out. Their beautiful house is set at the epicentre of the coffee region and sits on the edge of a stunning bamboo forest. We had our very own moloka hut on the edge of the garden, a beautiful room furnished with MariaTe’s daughters handprinted linens and paintings, and a dreamy bathroom with the kind of shower that makes you groan with relief when you stand under it. To say we were grateful is an understatement.
After a restful night's sleep, we woke early to the sound of birdsong, naturally. We were in paradise after all! After a delicious and traditional breakfast of scrambled eggs and arepas we headed to La Esmerelda, a one hundred year old farm that belonged to Paola’s great-grandmother and is now being looked after by her cousin Ximena. Ximena also happens to be Colombia’s leading bamboo taxonomist and has in amongst the grounds of the farm about 72 different species of bamboo. Pretty impressive when you think there are only 150 species in the world.
We were treated to a tour of the house which really is a thing of beauty. The verandah was exactly as you would picture an old ranch-style house, wooden rocking chairs, timber decks turned silver with age, black and white family portraits hanging on the walls, and random bowls of colourful tropical fruit. There were geese quacking in the gardens, cows in the fields, and the most incredibly colourful gardens.
One of the most wonderful parts was the old school that was originally set up to teach the local kids but also ended up teaching the adult workers as well. It's a place with a timeless grace that is almost impossible to recreate.
Ximena then took us on a long and unexpected walk around the bamboo forests she has so carefully cultivated over the years. It was fascinating to learn so much about bamboo, so many varieties when you take a close look and all so beautiful. We were glad that she had some homemade mozzie spray to hand because there were a lot!
Aside from being an excellent artist with a hand for etchings, MariaTe is also a magician in the garden. It is one of the loveliest I have seen, the colours blending as well as her paintings. Words won’t do it justice and I can’t remember all the names of the flowers and trees so here are some photos instead!
One morning, Jose kindly offered to show us around the coffee plantation and explained the whole harvesting process to us. He was insisting his English was no good but that's not true, we understood every word!
The Parque del Cafe is a highlight of the area, it has a visitor centre explaining the coffee making process, a bamboo forest, a small gondola and a touristy recreation of Armenia’s main square as it was back in the day. Aside from all that, it is also a theme park with lots of rides. It is interesting, but to be honest, we felt that we learnt more that morning with Jose, and we didn't really want to pay for the full ticket that included entry to the rides. I hate rides. The views are quite nice and I guess highlight how vast the coffee plantations in the area are but in our opinion, with the real thing being farmed all over the area it's missable. We were also amazed that more wasn't made of the coffee angle, there is one Juan Valdez coffee shop (the Starbucks of Colombia) and a place to buy some beans, but there were no opportunities to taste different blends or to sample some of the smaller, more independent producers.
For our last day in paradise, MariaTe and Jose kindly lent us their car and hired a driver to take us round the area. We are sure Alvaro was a racing driver in a previous life! He did not enjoy any vehicles, large or small being in front of us and didn't seem to be aware of any speed limits! We arrived at our first spot, the Quindio Botanical Gardens a little rattled but in half the time we would have otherwise! We had to take a guided tour round the gardens but it was just the two of us with a lady who spoke perfect English and it was all really rather fun. I fear that we are now of the age that we find facts about trees and flowers interesting. Sadly we didn't see any sloths but we were kept entertained for at least ten minutes by lots of hummingbirds (Rob’s new favourite bird) and did see some cool chrysalises in the butterfly sanctuary.
We sampled some of the famous trout in Buenavista, a lovely little mountain town with beautiful views. Our last stop was Pijao, another cute and colourful small town. We realised that the Premier League Final was on that afternoon and clearly Alvaro was desperate to watch it because as soon as we stopped anywhere, he ran to find a tv! This of course meant there were even more men lurking, most of them drunk by now, no idea where all the ladies were hanging out!
And finally it was time to say our goodbyes to our generous hosts. One nights stay had turned into four, we had recharged our batteries, explored this beautiful part of the world quite thoroughly and had made two new friends in MariaTe and Jose. Fingers crossed they will come to visit us in London one day so we can return the hospitality.
We had hired Alvaro again for half a day to take us on to Salento where we would be based for two nights, stopping at the small town of Filandia on the way. After a small detour (!), we made it to our hotel, a lovely little cabin on the outskirts of Salento. The woman who greeted us was certainly not the hostess with the mostess and was visibly annoyed at hearing our broken attempts at Spanish. It was a shame because she was the first and only person we had met who had not made us feel welcome in Colombia. Oh well, can't win them all.
Salento is a lovely little town and it comes alive at the weekends as out-of-towners visit. And in true Colombian fashion, an old friend and client of mine, Juan, who is now based in LA but is actually from Salento, got in touch and suggested we meet up with his sister Lina. So we did and we have been whatsapping ever since! Lina and her lovely two kids showed us round all their favourite places and kindly drove us up to the mirador for awesome views of the valley.
Valle de Cocora is home to the tallest palm trees in the world and was the main reason we had come to Salento. We set off early walking to the main square to ride a Willy (the Jeeps put on for tourists to take them to the start of the trails) for the half hour drive into the valley. You can apparently fit up to twenty-two people on some of the big Willys, but luckily we were crammed full at a meagre twelve. I was nestled standing in the back, whilst Rob took one for the team and hung off the rear with three others!
Not ones to follow the well-trodden tourist trail with all the others, Rob had an alternative trail in mind. Of course he did! A trail that would see us walking up a mountain, across streams, through jungle and countless spiderwebs in swelteringly hot conditions for over two hours. And there wasn't even a view when we reached the top! But we did have homemade ham and cheese sandwiches which helped.
But, once we did reach a break in the trees after that relentless climb (that no one else was doing), we were rewarded with some spectacular views! And the final two hours of the hike were a lovely (downhill) amble through scenery that was a cross between Jurassic Park and the Sound of Music. I could imagine a friendly diplodocus emerging from the trees. It was like nothing else we have ever seen before. Magical!
So, we totally and utterly, completely lucked out in Bogota. Despite yet another flight being cancelled (thanks Viva Colombia) and an unscheduled night (well, five hours) in a hotel in Lima, we finally arrived in Bogota. Our dear Colombian friends Paola and Ignacio from Hong Kong put us in touch with their friend Suki who was away for the long weekend and had an apartment we could stay in. We opened the door to the apartment of dreams. On the 19th floor in Los Rosales, the well to do area of Bogota, light filling, no, streaming through the windows, the kitchen full of only the best appliances, and we had an oven, our very own oven. And Suki had informed us we could eat anything left in the fridge and to just make ourselves at home. That we did! We didn't want to leave. And well, we basically didn’t!
After a lazy morning, home made smoothies and a full english courtesy of Carulla (aka supermarket of dreams) we did tear ourselves from our beautiful nest and headed downtown. Luckily Uber works well here which is good because there basically aren't any decent public transport options, just packed commuter buses which we really weren't in the mood for. As we left the well-coiffed streets of Las Rosales, we witnessed the grittier side of Bogota. By the time we reached downtown, we cautiously made our way to the Botero Museum.
Now 85 years old, Fernando Botero is undoubtedly one of Colombia’s most famous artists. His signature style depicting people and figures in large exaggerated form is unmistakable, he is the master of curves and all things round. The collection is made up of not only many of his own canvases and works on paper but a huge percentage of his private collection which he donated many years ago. I was a fan of his work before we visited but I left a true convert.
The area around the museum is full of other interesting museums, The Museo de Arte del Banco de la Republica and the Casa de Moneda. The Museo del Oro is also worth a visit, we kind of whipped round it though because, well, once you've seen ten little gold figures, they all sort of merge together.
Plaza de Bolivar is the equivalent to a main square with some impressive churches surrounding it but it is also dodge central, think drunken homeless men asking you for money at 11am. We went, we looked, got spotted a mile off and tried our best to get out of there with all our belongings!
There are so many wonderful restaurants in Bogota, it was impossible to get round them all so, here is a list of those we tried and others we didn't make but were recommended to us by people in the know (thanks Pao and Nacho!):
Rin Rin (cool bar)
Abasto (good for brunch)
Apache (good bar)
And some good galleries too, most of which we managed to visit. The last three were sadly closed when we visited, perhaps when open the area is a little more inviting but we were quite frankly terrified whilst walking around this area, once we found they were closed, we did our best to find a taxi pronto!
Alonso Garces Gallery
Valenzuela Klenner Gallery
Espacio El Dorado
Instituto de Vision
We had a fun morning wandering around Paloquemao Market, a must see for any foodies out there. More adventurous ones than us may also have been up for trying some of the local dishes being served at some of the stalls. We were due to get on a ten hour bus the next morning so thought it was best to skip it!
Lima is a big and generic South American city, a bit dirty, a bit shady in parts, lots of men inexplicably lurking around on the streets during the day. However the food in Lima is really good. Everything else about Lima is not so good, and the city is notorious for being particularly dangerous for tourists. But as usual if you stick to the right areas, such as Miraflores where we stayed, and don’t hang around on the street at night, it’s absolutely fine. Lima is a seaside city so a trip to the raised coastal side of town is a must, however the beach that runs along the main highway is pretty rough, although it seems to be popular with surfers. And the city was far too polluted when we there anyway to consider sitting on a beach.
The Barranco neighbourhood is really worth a visit, especially for the Mario Testino museum. And you must eat Ceviche. We chose one of the most well known, La Mar Cebicheria, which was amazing, but ceviche is served absolutely everywhere. Peruvian sandwiches (which are definitely not for vegetarians) are also a must eat.
Most importantly we made it to Central! Currently number five on the World’s Best Restaurant list, and Latin America's number one. Peruvian Air may have tried to scupper our plans by kindly cancelling our flight, but the good people at Central came through and secured us a new booking. Hurrah!
Chef Vergilio Martinez, still in his 30s, has been integral to Lima's food transformation over recent years. Working with his sister’s culinary research, he creates Mater menus - explorations of Peru's biodiversity, taking diners on a journey through different altitudes from -20 metres below sea level to 4,100 metres above it. Ingredients come from the Andes, the Amazon, and the sea. We ate things I couldn't even pronounce and are unlikely to ever come across again. Sea snails, sargassum and limpets from -10m, olluco and chincho stems from 3500m, air potato and cassava from the jungle, grown at 2800m, to mention just a few of our eleven courses. It was weird and wonderful, and some of the most beautifully plated food we have ever eaten.
Due to Peruvian Air’s screw up ('Oh, I’m sorry, but your flight has been cancelled, didn't you get our email?' No. No we certainly did not), we missed our original table booking and had to sit at the bar. Of course we were very grateful they could accommodate us at all when they normally have a three month waiting list. And of course the food you eat is exactly the same, but service is certainly not. We weren't blown away, which was a bit of a shame, especially considering we were spending at least three days budget on the meal!
We arrived late into Ollantaytambo, exhausted, damp and with achy legs. We were past the point of going out to eat, so ate some emergency stash biscuits and in true anniversary celebratory style, hit the hay. In an attempt to make use of the exorbitant Boleto Turistico, we got up relatively early to visit the Ollantaytambo ruins.
Thought by many to be another fortress located just outside the town, it is in actual fact a religious site with temples and funerary sites. The size of some of the stones that must have been hauled from the quarry five miles away was astonishing and each had been lovingly polished to remove the roughness. Such civilised folk.
An old French couple who were staying in our hostel were considering hiring a driver to take them round some of the Sacred Valley sites that day so we joined forces to reduce costs. It is definitely the best way as some of the roads are not bus or pedestrian friendly! They were fine (the Frenchies) apart from the dry political chat and the incessant chain-smoking.
Our first stop was the heavily restored Moray ruins. Although unsure of the purpose for these circular depressions, it is presumed it is an agricultural experimentation site. There is a difference of 15'C between the top and the bottom terrace which gave them the opportunity to see which crops grew best at which level. Ingenious and rather fascinating.
Next up were the Salinas de Maras, annoyingly not on our Turistico ticket so we had to pay extra, but it was worth it. Never seen so many shades of white and for an arty type like me, very aesthetically pleasing! The Incas were the first to start harvesting these salt ponds centuries ago. Where the salty water that pours out of the mountain comes from is still a mystery!
Our final stop was Chinchero, known to the Incas as the birthplace of the rainbow (seriously?) and is now a touristy village full of tat, a beautiful colonial church built on Incan foundations, and some more ruins. It is also the home of weaving so has a lovely selection of fabrics. If I didn't have to carry everything I buy around the world with me, I’d have gone crazy here.
This site is thought to be our friendly Incan Mr. Tupac’s country resort, the land remains rich and fertile and locals still grow potatoes, quinoa and fava beans here. And there is a grand old stone throne decorated with carving which I didn't see (but Rob did), because my legs are aching so much from yesterday's climb I can barely get my arse on to the toilet seat without assistance and a lot of groaning.
Rob & Charlie's travelling adventures on their long journey back to London after living in Hong Kong. Four continents, twelve countries, lots of experiences.
All photos copyright ©
Robert Ware & Charlotte Nunn